Oval Diamond Bowtie: What a Good One and a Bad One Look Like
By Clint Casmiro, Co-Founder, Smiro Studio, Toronto · Updated September 27, 2026
Short answer: A bowtie is the change in faceting across the middle of an oval, marquise or pear. Almost every elongated stone has one. On a well cut, well sourced oval it blends into the rest of the stone. On a poorly cut or poorly sourced one it shows up as a dark band that stays put as the ring moves. Check it on video before you buy, because grading reports do not mention it. If you do not want one at all, a bowtie-free oval has no change in faceting through the middle.
Know this before you buy an oval, so you do not end up with a massive dark bowtie in the middle of your diamond. Here is what to look for.
What is a bowtie in a diamond?
It is the change in faceting you see across the middle of an elongated stone. Ovals, marquises, pears and movals all have a shallower zone through the centre, and the facets there change direction. From the top it can look like a small bowtie lying across the stone.
It is a cutting issue, not a colour or clarity issue. Two ovals with the same carat, colour and clarity on paper can look completely different because of it.
What does a bad bowtie look like?
Dark and fixed. A poorly cut or poorly sourced oval shows a heavy black or grey band across the centre, and it stays there as the ring moves. From across a room it can make the stone look like it has a hole in the middle.
What does a good bowtie look like?
You can see the faceting change if you look for it, but it blends in with the rest of the stone. As the ring moves, it flickers bright and dark along with everything else instead of sitting there as one dark patch. On a well sourced oval most people would never notice it.
What is a bowtie-free oval?
An oval cut so there is no change in faceting pattern through the middle at all. The sparkle stays even from end to end. It is our custom cut, one of our signature stones, and it is the option for anyone who knows they will stare at the centre.
See it side by side with a Portuguese and a regular oval in this comparison.
How do I check a bowtie before I buy?
- Ask for video, not photos. A still picture can hide a bowtie or make it look worse than it is.
- Watch the stone rock slowly. A bowtie that flickers is normal. One that stays dark is the one to pass on.
- Look from a normal distance, not a macro close up. You will wear it at arm's length.
- Do not rely on the certificate. IGI and GIA reports do not grade the bowtie.
We send real video of every stone before you choose, and we flag a dark bowtie before you ever see it.
Want us to find you an oval without a dark centre?
A free 30 minute video call with Clint or Karina. Bring a photo, a budget, or nothing at all.
Book a free callSee our processQuestions we get about this
Do all oval diamonds have a bowtie?
Almost all of them have some change in faceting across the middle. On a well cut stone it blends in. A bowtie-free oval is cut so there is none.
Is a bowtie bad in an oval diamond?
Only when it is dark and stays visible as the stone moves. A faint bowtie that flickers with the rest of the stone is normal.
Does the bowtie show on the diamond certificate?
No. Grading reports do not note it, which is why you need video.
Can lab grown ovals have a bowtie?
Yes. It comes from the cut, so lab grown and natural ovals can both have one.
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