Portuguese Cut vs Bowtie-Free vs Regular Oval: 3 Ways to Cut an Oval Diamond
By Clint Casmiro, Co-Founder, Smiro Studio, Toronto · Updated September 27, 2026
Short answer: An oval diamond can be cut three ways. A regular oval has a change in faceting across the middle, called a bowtie, which a well cut stone blends in. A bowtie-free oval is cut so there is no dark centre at all and it sparkles like crushed ice from end to end. A Portuguese cut oval adds extra rows of triangular facets, which gives a kaleidoscope, almost floral pattern. None is better. They just look different, so pick the one you like on video.
Most people shopping for an oval think they are choosing a carat and a price. The bigger choice is how the stone is faceted. Here are all three side by side, and below is what you are looking at.
What is a regular oval diamond?
A regular oval is a brilliant cut stretched into an oval. Because the shape is long, the middle of the stone sits shallower than the ends, and the faceting changes there. That change is the bowtie.
A bowtie is normal. What matters is how it looks. On a well cut, well sourced stone it blends in with the rest of the diamond. On a poorly cut one it turns into a dark band across the middle that stays there as the ring moves. Grading reports do not mention it, so the only way to judge it is on video. We show what a good and a bad one look like in this guide.
What is a bowtie-free oval?
A bowtie-free oval is cut with a faceting pattern that keeps the centre lit. Look straight down and there is no change in pattern through the middle and no dark centre. The sparkle is small and even, closer to crushed ice or a disco ball than to the broad flashes of a regular oval.
It is one of our signature cuts. You will not usually find it at a big box store, and where you can, it is priced like a specialty item. Read more in our bowtie guide.
What is a Portuguese cut oval?
A Portuguese cut keeps the oval outline but adds extra rows of facets on the crown and pavilion. Those facets are small and triangular, so the stone throws a busy, kaleidoscope pattern. In person it reads almost floral, with the pattern radiating out through the whole stone.
It looks old world, closer to an antique hand cut stone than a modern oval. It is not our invention and other cutters offer it. We just love it. More in our Portuguese cut guide.
How do the three compare?
| Regular oval | Bowtie-free oval | Portuguese oval | |
|---|---|---|---|
| Centre of the stone | A bowtie that should blend in | No dark centre | Pattern runs through the middle |
| Sparkle | Broad flashes | Fine, crushed ice | Kaleidoscope, floral |
| Feel | Classic | Modern, bright | Vintage, antique |
| Availability | Easy to find | Specialty | Harder to find in stock |
Does a Portuguese cut only work on ovals?
No. It is a faceting style, not a shape, so the same three options exist for marquises and cushions too. See the marquise version and the cushion version, or one of our favourite builds, a 4 carat Portuguese marquise with Celtic knot engraving.
Which one should I choose?
Watch all three on video before you decide. Photos flatten the difference, and the effect lives in movement. We send real video of every stone before you choose.
- Want the classic look at the best price: a well sourced regular oval.
- Hate the idea of a dark centre: bowtie-free.
- Want something vintage that almost nobody else is wearing: Portuguese.
Not sure which oval is yours?
A free 30 minute video call with Clint or Karina. Bring a photo, a budget, or nothing at all.
Book a free callSee our processQuestions we get about this
What is the difference between a Portuguese cut and a regular oval diamond?
Both are oval shaped. A Portuguese cut adds extra rows of small triangular facets, which give a kaleidoscope, floral pattern. A regular oval is a standard brilliant cut and usually shows a bowtie across the middle.
What is a bowtie-free oval diamond?
An oval cut with a faceting pattern that keeps the centre bright, so there is no dark bowtie across the middle. The sparkle looks like crushed ice from end to end.
Is a bowtie in an oval diamond bad?
Not always. On a well cut, well sourced stone the bowtie blends in. A dark band that stays visible as the stone moves is the one to avoid.
Can lab grown ovals be Portuguese cut or bowtie-free?
Yes. Both are about how the stone is cut, so we source them in lab grown and natural.
How do I check an oval for a bowtie before buying?
Ask for video and rock the stone slowly. Grading reports do not note the bowtie, so a certificate will not tell you.
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