Portuguese vs Bowtie-Free vs Regular Marquise: 3 Ways to Cut a Marquise Diamond
By Clint Casmiro, Co-Founder, Smiro Studio, Toronto · Updated September 27, 2026
Short answer: A marquise can be cut three ways. A Portuguese cut marquise has a flower-like triangular facet pattern running through the whole stone. A bowtie-free marquise has no change in faceting through the middle, just brilliant faceting from point to point. A regular brilliant marquise shows a change in faceting across the centre, called a bowtie, like most elongated shapes. Same outline, three different looks.
Know this before you buy a marquise. The shape is the same in all three stones below. What changes is how the light comes back.
What is a Portuguese cut marquise?
A marquise with extra rows of small triangular facets. The pattern runs through the entire stone and looks almost like a flower opening up from the centre. On a marquise it reads dramatic and vintage, because the long points carry the facets right out to the tips.
It is not our invention and other cutters offer it. We just love it. More in our Portuguese cut guide.
What is a bowtie-free marquise?
A marquise cut so there is no change in faceting pattern in the middle of the stone. It is brilliant faceting throughout, from one point to the other, so the centre stays as bright as the ends. If the idea of a bowtie bothers you, this is the one.
What is a regular marquise?
A standard brilliant cut marquise. Like every elongated shape, it has a change in faceting across the middle, the bowtie. On a well cut stone it blends in. On a poorly cut one it turns into a dark band. Always check it on video. Our bowtie guide shows what good and bad look like.
How do the three compare?
| Portuguese | Bowtie-free | Regular | |
|---|---|---|---|
| Middle of the stone | Floral pattern runs through | No change in faceting | Bowtie that should blend in |
| Look | Vintage, kaleidoscope | Bright end to end | Classic brilliant |
| Availability | Harder to find | Specialty | Easy to find |
How should a marquise be set?
A marquise point is the thinnest part of the stone, so we always cover the tips with prongs. We build a lot of marquises in a tulip basket, and the petals can even cross over underneath: see classic vs crossover tulip petals. For a crisper outline, look at the Dutch marquise.
Not sure which marquise is yours?
A free 30 minute video call with Clint or Karina. Bring a photo, a budget, or nothing at all.
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What is the difference between a Portuguese and a regular marquise?
Both have the same outline. A Portuguese marquise adds extra rows of triangular facets for a floral, kaleidoscope pattern. A regular marquise is a standard brilliant cut with a bowtie across the middle.
Do marquise diamonds have a bowtie?
Regular brilliant marquises do, like most elongated shapes. A bowtie-free marquise is cut so there is no change in faceting through the centre.
Can I get a lab grown Portuguese marquise?
Yes. We source Portuguese and bowtie-free cuts in lab grown and natural.
Why cover the points of a marquise?
The points are the thinnest part of the stone, so prongs over the tips protect them from chipping.
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